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This mistake will make your energy bills soar

Mark Adams
by Lovemoney Staff Mark Adams on 11 February 2010  |  Comments 26 comments

Make this mistake and you'll regret it when your energy bill lands on your doorstep.

Britain could be heading towards an energy crisis, according to a new report from power regulator Ofgem. The watchdog this month warned that, without significant investment and an overhaul of Britain's energy infrastructure, our ever-growing domestic power needs could push the average annual energy bill beyond the £2,000 barrier by 2015.

This terrifying prospect means that it's now time to think about your energy consumption. Failing to address this issue won't just damage the environment - it will have serious ramifications on your bank balance.

Fortunately, you don't have to spend thousands kitting out your home with new appliances. Just by adopting a few good habits and making smart purchases when you replace big-ticket items, you could shave up to £300 off your annual energy bill.

First steps

Your first move is obvious but still worthwhile - even if you have before, use our gas and electricity comparison service to ensure you're on the cheapest possible tariff. You can maximise your savings by switching at the right time - you could save in excess of £200 by switching from an average tariff to the cheapest 'dual fuel' deal for gas and electricity.

If you need a helping hand, you can visit our "goals" centre and adopt the resolution to Lower Your Household Bills

Get a greener boiler

If your current boiler has failed to keep pace with this most severe of winters, it's probably time to switch to a more-energy efficient model. The initial outlay isn't cheap but you'll recoup the estimated £2,500 cost in just a few years - and, following the introduction of the Government's Boiler Scrappage Scheme, gas suppliers are bringing down the cost of upgrades by hundreds of pounds.

So, how do you know whether to switch? Boilers are graded from A to G according to their energy efficiency by the Energy Saving Trust - G-grade boilers are typically more than 10 years old, have a pilot light permanently on, and comprise a single combustion chamber.

A-grade boilers, in contrast, are typically 'condensing' models that cunningly reuse heat that would otherwise be wasted. There are two types of condensing boiler - 'regular' condensing boilers heat your hot water through a hot water cylinder. 'Combination' models give you instant hot water without the need for a cylinder.

Under the scrappage scheme, 175,000 low-income households in England can get a £400 grant to upgrade their boilers. Yet even if you're not eligible, it could still be worth upgrading - figures from the Energy Saving Trust show that annual energy bill for the average detached home is £235 cheaper with an A-grade boiler. What's more, mainstream suppliers have also brought down their prices - British Gas is currently offering reductions of up to £1,052 on new boiler and installation packages.

Finally, make sure any boiler is installed by a professional signed-up to the Gas Safe Register scheme - and check to see if you're eligible for one of the many grants available from the Energy Saving Trust.

Watch your water use

The Energy Saving Trust estimates that installing just a few simple water-saving measures could save a typical household £225 per year on combined water and energy bills. The energy used to heat water comprises some 23 per cent of our total annual consumption, yet households can reduce that figure by as much as 10 per cent with some inexpensive fixes.

One vital measure is to refit shower heads and taps with low-usage models. By simply replacing a 16-litre per minute shower head with a six-litre per minute model could contribute towards annual savings of £225 for the average one-child home. That's a hefty saving in exchange for the typical £30 cost of a low-flow shower head.

And the thrifty savings don't end there. Doing the washing up in a bowl rather than under a running tap can bring bills down by some £40 a year and has more impact than installing water-saving technology. Installing a water displacement device can cut the water used when flushing your toilet and shave £20 off your bills in exchange for a sub-£10 outlay.

It also pays to keep an eye on your washing machine. An old energy-sapping model can use as much as 20 per cent more energy than new energy-efficient models - look for a model with an A-grade European Community Energy Label to enjoy the biggest saving. You should be able to buy a new model for little more than £200 - and you could spread the cost with a 0% credit card deal for new purchases.

If you use a washing machine turn the temperature down to 30°C - the reduction will shave £10 off your annual energy bill. What's more, modern washing powders are so efficient they do not need to be used at high temperatures - so your clothes won't suffer. Even better, get into the habit of hand-washing and just using your machine's spin function to save both time and money.  

Tame your power-hungry TV!

Our sophisticated gadgets are the biggest drain on the nation's energy bills. Consumer electronic items such as flatscreen TVs, mobile phones and laptops account for a third of our annual energy usage - and that figure is set to hit 45 per cent by 2020.

The humble mobile phone accounts for a huge percentage of that consumption - more than 9m households charge up their gadgets overnight, with 22m needlessly charged every day. In fact, most models only need to be plugged in for about two hours.  And finally, the cost of leaving items on standby shouldn't be overlooked - the EST estimates the average household could save £37 a year through avoided standby use alone.

Luckily, you can get an energy-saving gadget - known as a standby-saver - to help with this, for as little as £14. Here at lovemoney.com, we were given one for free by Nigel's Eco Store. Find out what we thought of it (and some other nifty energy-saving devices) here on the Editor's Blog.

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Comments (26)

  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    There are two types of condensing boiler - 'regular' condensing boilers heat your hot water through a hot water cylinder. 'Combination' models give you instant hot water without the need for a cylinder.

    Actually there are three types of condensing boilers.

    There is the combi boiler, which as you say heats up the hot water for bathing etc. as well as supplying the heating system water. Instantaneous hot water? Well that is relative because that depends how far the boiler is from the tap and how much cold water has to be drawn off before the new hot water reaches the tap. These boilers are ok for small apartments with one or two people living in the household beyond that application they become over powered burning far more gas than they should, typically a family house needing a average of 10 to 15kw of energy to heat it, will require a 30 to 35kw combi to get sufficient hot water to be of use to that house. Unfortunately due to it's ease of installation and small amount of space they require compared to the alternatives combi's are favoured by installers are a quick fix solution, regardless of suitability. Fortunately the NHBC has in new build property all but ruled out the further combi installations in family homes as unfit for purpose.

    The next type of condensing boiler is the system boiler, normally paired with a high efficiency unvented hot water storage cylinder, this boiler is a pressurised boiler like a combi, and as such there is no need for a feed and expansion tank, as it has an expansion vessel built in to it and also the central heating pump is built in. There is very little difference internally between a combi and a system boiler, efficiency is increased by the fact that a average family home could use a 24kw system boiler to produce ample hot water from a unvented cylinder at mains water pressure, ideal for powerful showers. Fitting a secondary return pump to the cylinder means instant hot water at the tap, with little or no cold draw off and the cylinders are so well insulated they will keep the water hot for days. Depending on the size of cylinder this will add around £600 to £800 on a typical installation, but will save you money on your bills.

    Lastly there is the regular boiler this is termed as a heating only boiler, but will heat a standard copper cylinder or unvented cylinder and is suitable for a open vented, traditional system, where there is a feed & expansion tank in the loft or similar space. This is typically the boiler you would use to replace an old open vented boiler in a old existing system, if you used one of the other types of pressurised boilers in a old open vented system the chances are you will end up chasing leaks as the increase in pressure will find any weak spot in your old pipe work (normally under floors) and radiators.

    All of these boilers have there place, it is only when square pegs are shoved in to round holes that problems happen.

    ,

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  • FunkyMunky
    Love rating 1
    FunkyMunky said

    And so what if British Gas are offering £1,052 off their boiler installation packages. I got a quote from them for £5.5k (apparently this included a special BG customers discount and £400 off - because that was the offer at the time). I got a Worchester Bosch from a local plumber for £1800. All above board an VAT paid.

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  • eLJay
    Love rating 76
    eLJay said

    Ken1961: I suspect you are either a plumber or work for some connected company (I work in a housing association and have to deal with that sort of information occassionally). Good guide - thanks, though a laymans guide on spotting which type you have fitted might also be useful.

    FunkyMunky: British Gas are always expensive for the work they do, its how they pay the shareholders whilst keeping a large repairs force going - a local acredited tradesman will no doubt be cheaper and I'd advise using one whilst maybe paying for some third party cover in case it all goes wrong. I would guess it will still be cheaper than British Gas.

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  • divebabe31
    Love rating 0
    divebabe31 said

    Get into the habit of handwashing to save time and money?

    It certainly isn't going to save you time and I think its debatable whether you would save money - I suspect a washing machine may be more efficient in its use of water per item of clothing washed if you always run it with a full load.

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  • MrPound
    Love rating 11
    MrPound said

    Who does their washing up under a running tap? Madness! You may as well include statements such as

    "and another money saving tip - make sure that you put you central heating on timer, rather than leaving it running at full capacity 24/365. This could save you over £2000 per year"

    Genuis. Can I have a job?

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    There is a lot of stuff out out about this efficiency thing but there are many of the suggestion which are overrated. I replaced a 35year old boiler/gravity hot water system with a fan flued combi boiler 5 years ago and could not really detect any difference in bills. The old boiler had never been serviced and was in perfect working order with no soot build up. The combi boiler is far less reliable but that is mainly down to hot water problems. That's two myths shot down although a condensing boiler may be more efficient. Also, my heating system uses microbore with no problems (after I ripped it out and did it properly 35 years ago!) in spite of being widely condemned now.

    I did replace the entire hot water plumbing with microbore to reduce the amount of unused hot water - that helped but only practical with a high pressure hot water system and, on reflection, I wish I had used insulated or plastic pipe. I remain unconvinced of the benefits of a combi and am now considering an electrically heated pressurised system as this simplifies showers and the cost/Kw comprison between gas/electric is lessening especially when you take account of the inefficiences of indirect heating of the hot water. This is particularly good on off peak and there are many tariffs available where the price for dayime electricity is much the same on both off peak and normal tariffs.

    My dishwasher and washing machine are now both cold fill only using low temperature deturgents - that helps. I have also reduced the target water temperature of the water in the heating system and keep the heating on semi permanently. This maintains a steady temperature and eliminates peaks in the room temperature as the heating no longer cuts off with scalding hot water in the rads which continues to heat the room. I also use a drier for the washing as that has eliminated a lot of heat loss through going in and out to hang it ouside and the damp and heat loss through drying on radiators etc. Two unexpected side effects of this are softer towels and a lot less dust around because all of the loose fibres in the washing are now shaken out and collected in the filter.

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  • amips
    Love rating 20
    amips said

    Ah yes MrPound but I found out that leaving my boiler on throughout the day was beneficial and only cost me 10% more! I used to have it turn off at 10am then come on again at 4pm. The house feels much better now being less damp (it's an old house!) and much warmer - all for just an extra 25p per day.

    Yes I know it all adds up but sometimes it's just worth the extra and perhaps not as much as some would believe!

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  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    ronat42   

    What on earth are you talking about? microbore on the hot water plumbing, no wonder your combi is 1) not efficient and 2) not reliable. The stress and strain you are putting on that poor machine, I'm surprised it's still going. You are typical of the adage "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing". A combi is designed to deliver hot water to taps through 22 & 15mm pipework, it typically will pass between 9 & 13litres per minute through the boilers hot water heat exchanger (depending on boilers output) and out to the taps, if you then go and plumb the hot water in 10mm, the boiler will still try to deliver the same amount of water, i.e. between 9 & 13 litres per minute but through a much smaller orifice, this could result in noise, overheating, over pressure and additional wear on boiler & pump components leading to premature boiler failure, any of this sound familiar?

    From your description the boiler will never work to it's maximum efficiency and presumably it has not been installed by a competent person i.e. a corgi or gas safe engineer and is therefore probably an illegal installation and more importantly potentially dangerous.

     

    You have also failed to grasp that a boiler is not a stand alone piece of equipment, it requires the remainder of the system to be designed properly ( for instance separation of upper & lower floors), system cleaned and appropriate controls to be fitted such as programmable room thermostats. Only after this has been done will you get the full benefit of a high efficiency boiler.

    Lastly good luck with your electric idea, again your little knowledge will cost you dear.

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    Ah Ken1961, you sound exactly like a professional. I am not an idiot, I have a wide range of experience at levels most trade professionals wouldn't nearly understand and you have just repeated a load of irrelevant nonsense without understanding what I have done. It works well, it's efficient and it's a damned sight more safe than a lot of professional installetions I have seen. I've been around a long time and listened to a lot of 'trained people'. Most only repeat what they have been taught without understanding it. I really do not wish to critisise your knowledge and experience but, believe me, it works and it is efficient. The only problems I have are with what is left of the original installation by a heating engineer. Your coments about separate floorssystems etc. are perectly OK if the use of the premises requires it. Mine doesn't and if it did, I should fit it and it would be done with a lot more understanding than most heating engineers could apply.

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  • oldhenry
    Love rating 265
    oldhenry said

    There are thousands of microbore systems working with condensing boilers. It is not the mocrobore at fault , it is the rubbish boilers. They are overcomplicated and bound to fail, many in ten years without getting your money back. The planet will not be savedby this, but a lot of jobs will be created which is the Government's real objective. Fanned flues often last a few years and costs well over £200 to fix. PCBs fails and cost hundreds, plus the inconvenience. Also lots of ugle drain pipework across walls , some have frozen in teh cold spell and cost more money to fix.

    I'll stick with my Ideal Standard Open Flued boiler and use the 'waste' heat from it to dry washing, air the house and attic. I love teh boiler, it is so easy to clean , I would like other people's old ones for spares - if they are mad enough to get shut of them.

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  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    ronat42

    Making a statement that you understand what you are doing, doesn't necessarily make it so. You said you replaced you hot water system with a microbore system, you also said you were having problems with the DHW system side of your boiler. I'm not surprised for the reasons I stated earlier.

     Simple hydraulics is that if you try to send down a pipe, a volume of liquid, by reducing the diameter of that pipe, you will increase the velocity of the water going through the pipe. If you change the pipe work, say from 22mm to 10mm as you said you had that velocity will increase from 0.4385m/s (22mm pipe) to 2.12m/s (10mm pipe). The nett result of this would be due to the velocity, insufficient heat transfer from heat exchanger to water as a combi boiler typically would not want to see more than 1.5m/s.

     Couple this with the increased risk of pump cavitation & water hammer, you can not have an efficient system this is backed up by your statement that you saw no change in your gas bills.

    As for being an expert, well no I am an engineer with over 30 years experience as a building services design engineer. I have been involved in projects as diverse as Euro tunnel, Chelsea & Westminster Hospital, London Underground Jubilee Line, RAF Leuchars, and a number of other military bases, University's, schools, banks, offices, HM Coast Guard bases, art galleries and a myriad number of NHS buildings and private care homes. As well as being very well versed in thermodynamics, hydraulics, BMS energy management, refrigeration and gas detection/fire safety systems. I have also installed & commissioned air conditioning systems (I am refrigerant gas safe registered, the air conditioning industries CORGI) as well as BMS systems. So I'm not just a desk jockey either and I have enough experience to correctly design a central heating system using every thing from a multifuel stove to a CHP system.

     

    Designed and installed correctly a modern heating system will show improvements in efficiency over a old system. The beauty of a BMS system is that it gives hard fact evidence of fuel savings in commercial buildings, these have been recorded over a considerable number of years and it has now been proven beyond hearsay or opinion that the technology such as condensing boilers, load demand thermostats, optimisation, weather compensation, which all have served there time in commercial buildings and quite simply work.

    The first heat pumps I got involved with where back in 1979, in a office development in Dundee, solar panels back in 1982, these technologies work and have improved no end in the intervening years. If however you think you know better, well fine no problem to me, but don't complain when your fuel bill triple in the next few years.

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    Ken 1961, this is getting way off topic. First, I didn't install a microbore system, It was designed by a heating engineer and fitted by a plumber of 20 years experience, I just made it work properly. Second, I understand hydrolics better than any plumber or heating engineer I have ever spoken to and they, by and large accept that. Third, I recently had to pay 2 gorgi plumbers £3000 for 2 days to install a £700 boiler to comply with regulations because it was in a student let which I own. I know that I could have done it in one day on my own and made a neater job, even more important, there was nothing wrong with the old boiler that I couldn't have repaired myself in an hour. You may understand hydrolics but I have never met a plumber that does. I wish I had taken up plumbing because I could have had an easier better paid job than teaching electronics to degree level. Even there, It was a constant battle to fight people who earned a living by repeating texts that they often misquoted because they didn't understand it in the first place. I am sure that you are perfectl competent, or at least I hope so. Now please get off your soap box and let others take part.

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  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    ronat42

    Have a nice day ;-)

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  • Klawman
    Love rating 17
    Klawman said

    "Installing a water displacement device can cut the water used when flushing your toilet and shave £20 off your bills in exchange for a sub-£10 outlay"

    How about three 500ml old soft drinks/mineral water bottles? Immerse them in the cistern, put the caps on tightly and - Hey Presto - 1.5 litres saved per flush. Cost?  Zero.

    Or how about lowering the float by an inch or so? Same effect. Zero cost.

    Mr Pound: "Who does their washing up under a running tap? Madness!"

    Well, actually, we do. The thought of eating off plates that have been taken straight out of a bowl of filthy detergent that all the dishes and pots and pans have been in - and just left to drain - turns my stomach. Sorry, but I think it's a disgusting habit.

    There's no need to run the tap on full - and by doing it over a bowl, I've noticed that it uses no more than a bowl's worth, either. 

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  • Klawman
    Love rating 17
    Klawman said

    Dear Ronat42 - what pray are these "hydrolics" you claim to understand so well? As installed by "gorgi" plumbers?

    I think I'll just stick to hydraulics and use Corgi plumbers.

    Does your mangled form of English, with adjectives in place of adverbs, incorrect use of pronouns and a cavalier disregard for punctuation, exemplify how you communicate with your students, too?   

    I ask, because I would not want my children taught like this, be it at school or university. And when I mark undergrad essays and scripts, I deduct points for bad grammar and bad spelling.

       

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  • Iniq
    Love rating 27
    Iniq said

    Oldhenry is right.

    Quote:

    " ... It is not the mocrobore at fault , it is the rubbish boilers. They are overcomplicated and bound to fail, many in ten years without getting your money back. The planet will not be savedby this, but a lot of jobs will be created which is the Government's real objective. Fanned flues often last a few years and costs well over £200 to fix. PCBs fails and cost hundreds, plus the inconvenience ...

     ... I'll stick with my Ideal Standard Open Flued boiler ... "

    All the experienced professional I have spoken to say "Don't replace your conventional boiler with a condensing boiler. They are more complicated, more unreliable, more expensive, more difficult to repair and more expensive to repair than a conventional boiler, and the potential fuel saving is grossly exaggerated."

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  • Matteo
    Love rating 0
    Matteo said

    Ronat42: "I did replace the entire hot water plumbing with microbore to reduce the amount of unused hot water..."

    Ronat42: "First, I didn't install a microbore system"

    Err...??

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  • MrPound
    Love rating 11
    MrPound said

    Amips and Klawman - I stand corrected! Firstly I understand Amips that if you have a thermostat then this could be beneficial. We do not however. The heating is either on or off although it does have a temperature control on the boiler and on each radiator which can be manually adjusted. And the system is only 3 years old. So fair point to you.

    Klawman - I would guess that the majority of people wash up using a bowl of water and washing up liquid. The soap will loosen the dirt from the dishes and the heat of the water will kill the bugs. This is the same as in a dishwasher. This practise has also been going on for centuries. I don't think it is "disgusting" just normal. The old two sink system allowed for a rinse off, but you don't get them nowadays (apologies for my colloquialism). But I respect your opinion.

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    Ken1961. In spite of the strong difference of opinion I enjoyed the discussion and respect your views so I return your parting sentiment.

    Klawman. I agree your comments in both posts and support your diligent analysis of my grammar. I can only say "Sorry." and offer the excuse that I was a little weary and annoyed at the time and more concerned with the technical accuracy of my response. Moreover, My eyesight is failing and I frquently hit the wrong keys because my hands are more comfortable with tools than with a keyboard.

    Matteo. Please read my comments again and it may make sense.

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  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    Thanks Matteo I thought it was perhaps just me.

    Iniq strange how you choose to believe the "experts" that share the same misguided beliefs as your self, truth being a large proportion of installers just simply don't get condensing technology so spout the same old garbage day in, day out...oh and strangely they seem to be in the boiler repair side of the industry. I would suggest a conflict of interest perhaps may exist there, what do you think?

     

    Before you answer that question, should of course you decide to; did you know that many of the new condensing boilers come with a 5 year parts and labour warranty and there is at least one manufacturer offering a 10 year parts & labour warranty. A 30Kw combi from that particular manufacturer complete with flue & time clock will cost £599 + vat.

    Now to off set the cost of your new boiler you would no longer require boiler breakdown cover approx. £90 per year, (providing British Gas etc. don't put there prices up for the next 10 years), therefore buying that boiler would save you £196 over 10 years, of course there is the chance to get £400 from the government to change your old boiler, so now the savings are almost £600 and providing it is installed correctly you will save money on your fuel bill. 

     If you don't want a combi, then the same company has a 20Kw regular heat only boiler (see my first post for description of this type of boiler) price for that one is £350 + vat, again with a 10 year parts & labour warranty, I will let you do the maths on how much you would save by having that one.

    Of course I know I have not taken installation costs in to account,  however the chances of a 1970/80's boiler lasting for a further 10 years with out ever needing parts or replacing is next to nil.

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    I am almost afraid to come back on this but, as I see it, most of the people on the receiving end are not too impressed with combi boilers and the efficiency thing is still questionable. To be fair, my mother has just had a new combi fitted professionally and it is fine apart from the noise which keeps her awake. She is 90 and needs some heat during the night. Noise is certainly a feature of modern boilers as anyone living in an old tenement home will be aware. None of the people that I know who have had a combi boiler in the past have been happy with the results but it does seem that they have improved, apart from the noise. The main problem is that there is a considerable delay in producing hot water in the summer because the boiler first has to waste heat to feed into the heat exchanger and for a quick hand wash or a bowl of water that is just not efficient. In fact, for a washing machine, the water doesn't get hot before the machine has enough water. It is certainly not a 'One size fits all.' situation and I am sure that there are people who can advise properly but I have yet to find one. I therefore have to trust my own judgement and solve my own problems sharing my experience freely without making any promises. One such experience is that the quality of work is often inversely proportional to the charges.

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    I just want to add that, in my opinion, the original information and suggestions by Mark Adams are a good basis for constructive discussion.

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  • Ken1961
    Love rating 22
    Ken1961 said

    Personally I would not give a combi boiler house room and my original post, way back at the beginning of this discussion gives my reasons for this. However I will say that IF correctly fitted in a REASONABLY well designed system a high efficiency combi will be more efficient than a older standard efficiency boiler.

    I totally concur with ronat42 that the combi boiler is not a one size fits all solution regardless of what many a plumber might say. In that statement perhaps on examination lies the crux of the matter as the best piece of advise I can perhaps give is that if you want a heating system upgraded or installed from new then employ a heating engineer, if you want a bathroom suite installed then you employ a plumber, too many plumbers believe they are heating engineers, when in fact they should stick to bogs & baths. Also never, ever, just choose your installer based on price, the only thing that go's cheap is a budgie and I would not ask my budgie to fit my boiler.

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  • Klawman
    Love rating 17
    Klawman said

    MrPound

    " ...and the heat of the water will kill the bugs."

    I'm sorry to disillusion you, but unless you are using scalding water (70C or higher), you will not kill off the bugs. And even at 70C, you won't kill them all. There's a reason why typical hospital and laboratory sterlisation protocols involve live steam at 121C for 20 minutes (or 160C dry heat for 2 hours). Microbes will very happily survive any temperature that human hands can tolerate.

    You're welcome to eat off plates that have been taken straight out of dirty, warm water teeming with bacteria. I'd rather not.

    BTW, there is no problem with getting 1 1/2 bowl and double sinks. We have a 2 1/2 bowl sink (admittedly, that was more difficult to source).

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  • ronat42
    Love rating 62
    ronat42 said

    Klawman, If you're still following this, my wife is just homeafter a bone marrow transplant and we are obviously deeply concerned about bugs, We work on the principle that bugs only multiply if they're given the right conditions but they are always there. We wash everything once in hot soapy water and than give them ann intesive wash in the dishwasher. Power hungry but the best we can do. Do you have any thoughts on that please.

    Ken1961. Just a little horror story you might enjoy. Our new house as mentioned earlier originally had more radiator area in the dining room with 1 outside wall than the lounge twice the size with 3 outside walls 2 windows and a large patio door. There was no heat in the inner hall stairs and landing with a floor area about 200 sq ft but that was where thay fitted the thermostat with about 3 degree on-off switch hysteresis The outer hall 40 sq ft had half the power of the dining room. There were other problems but that perhaps explains some of my earlier condemnation of professionals. Also, if my old boiler was clean inside that would suggest that it was working very efficiently and it is not suprising that there was little or no improvement from its replacement.

    More on topic, it is often neglected to take account of the fact that almost all electrical equipment, no matter how efficient or inefficient, inevitably converts most of it's energy to heat and therefore contributes to filling the overall heating requirement. This is possibly not always at the right time and place but it must bring into question a lot of the arguments for using some of the energy saving devices. This is particularly true for incandescent lighting which I have to use because the high efficiency lights bring on severe migraine which is not uncommon and frequently not diagnosed correctly.

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  • Klawman
    Love rating 17
    Klawman said

    Ronat43 sorry, been away for a while and only just seen your query.

    You don't need to go to the trouble of pre-washing and then machine washing your dishes. Pre-soak them in soapy water. Put a few drops of detergent on a sponge/scouring pad, wash each dish under running hot water (a gentle stream of water is adequate) and rinse off thoroughly in running hot water and leave to dry. Keep rinsing out your sponge/scouring pad frequently. When you have finished, rinse out the sponge, squeeze out excess moisture and pop it into the microwave for 2-3 minutes. Do the same with any cloths used for wiping surfaces. Microwaving will kill at least 99.9% of germs.

    In the UK, mains tap water is virtually sterile - and provided the hot water thermostat is set to 60C or above, there won't be any significant presence of bacteria in the hot water supply, either. 

    Report on 21 February 2010  |  Love thisLove  0 loves

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